More Registan

You will see much more, we made several visits in order to contemplate the magnitude of the site. It was a pity though, in a sense, that the square was cleaned up of market and everyday activities, the old photos and paintings of a milling crowd in the midst of the medressas were fantastic!

In awe of the Registan!

The first look at Samarkand's Registan was almost overwhelming.

Water my camels

Opposite each other on the Bukhara-Samarkand road, are the remains of a caravanserai and a watering-hole for camels.

Classic Silk Road-territory and equipment!

Conjuring the emir of Bukhara

According to legend, the last emir sat in this pavilion, watching his 40 wives play in the pond, then throwing an apple to the one he wished to see in his bedchamber next. Can't you see him?

Uzbek baroque

or is it maybe jugend/art deco?

The emir's decorating taste was lavish anyways... especially for a summer palace.

The summer palace of the Emir of Bukhara

The summer palace had an airy feeling outside (but wait until we look inside...) with gardens and whitewashed courtyards.

The emir's peacock

Leaving Bukhara for Samarkand, on the outskirts of the town, we passed the emir's summer palace. Out in the garden, we met these handsome peacocks.

Reading in the summer

I believe that culture issues will be strongly represented this week. The Gulf features a lot too.

Dagens Nyheter published fascinating results of a survey, indicating how happy inhabitants of different countries are. Look at the differences within Germany. Or who is really unhappy - Iraq and Zimbabwe are hardly surprising but our Baltic neighbours? Real food for thought in that list, I found.

OMCT's report on human rights defenders in 2007 for the Middle East can be found here.

Christopher Davidson writes for Open Democracy on developments in the UAE.

Gulf News writes on the vision of development for the UAE Federal National Council. Gulf News also writes on the work against human trafficking in the UAE. The UAE ministry writes here on their work with human rights-related issues.

BBC tells of Dubai plans for a moving sky-scraper...

Svenska Dagbladet followed a Stockholm visit by an influential Saudi prince. Neil Partrick writes here for Chatham House on Saudi Middle East Policy.

Aftonbladets Jesper Bengtsson writes on Iran. Kurdo Baksi pleads for a woman risking stoning in Iran if deported from Sweden.

The National discusses the view on Iraq in the Gulf.

BBC tells of a new Islamic museum in Sharjah.

BBC writes on film events and media in Egypt.

Juan Cole writes in the "Informed Comment"-blog on Turkey's constitutional crisis. Also The Economist writes on Turkey and the veiling issue. svenska Dagbladet (Bitte H as usual) writes on the danger of AKP being declared illegal.

My husband recommends this on Turkey and regional integration with Caucasian neighbours.

Svenska Dagbladet reviewed and Israeli film, "The Lemon grove" (I wonder if that is the name in English?).

Dagens Nyheters weekend-magazine tells the story of a new Oriental night club in Stockholm.

Svenska Dagbladet here interviews the Swedish-Iranian documentary film-maker Nahid Persson, previously known for the film on 2 Tehran prostitutes "Behind the veil".

An international writer's conference in Stockholm has gathered author's from all over the world, including Mozambiques Mia Couto, interviewed by Dagens Nyheter.

Dagens Nyheter reviews the new Narnia-movie, "Prince Caspian".

A Svenska Dagbladet-column arguing against the new and controversial Swedish legislation on electronic intelligence.

In the Swedish summer, a political event of great importance takes place, including a programme of security-policy talks.

Time magazine ran an article on surviving disaster, including talks with Swedish parliamentarian Kent Härstedt, who once survived a sinking passenger ferry in the Baltic sea (Estonia, in 1994).

Old Bukhara quarters

The old Jewish quarter, which today gave quite a run-down impression. Quite many small tourist hotels and boutique-type restaurants could be found here, too, though, så some sort of development is under way.

I wondered how the open gas-pipes did during winter, with temperatures reaching -40 in the desert climate?

Nadir Divanbeki complex

Surrounding Lyabi-Hauz on the other sides is the Nadir Divanbeki complex of medresa and caravanserai, built in the 17th century. The work is beautiful down to the slightest detail.

Kukeldash medresa

Across the street from Lyabi-hauz lay this medresa, nice not least for it's unrestored qualities. The inner ceilings were impressive!

Carpet museum

Opposite our hotel in Bukhara lay a small carpet-museum. They had some really nice old pieces and we saw (and felt! - the silk, the silk!) some beautiful carpets during our trip, but none that really appealed to our hearts. So no, Bukhara carpet for us this time (even if the best ones are said to be made in Turkmenistan).

Reminiscences of Jewish Bukhara

In the old quarters beyond the Lyabi-Hauz lies Bukhara's synagogue. Bukhara's Jews have mainly left now (only a few hundred left I was told) but have historically been an important community, both locally and in the wider Jewish sphere. I also remember seeing early photos from Jerusalem of the Bukhara community there, many years ago.





Also other signs reminded of the old Jewish community.